Two buses left Washington, DC on a warm spring day, May 4th, 1961.  As they pulled out, they left behind them a young, modern President, John F. Kennedy, newly elected, having gotten to the White House on promises of change, of hope.  They were bound for New Orleans, to test the already 10-year old civil rights laws in America which had long-ago outlawed separate services for and unequal treatment of blacks.

Black and white, of all faiths, they sat throughout the bus despite still-in-place Jim Crow seating laws, as they headed deep into the Southern states.  They were fearful and hopeful, faithful and proud.  But they were together.  They had Faith.

Mardi Gras and the values of Justice, Faith and Power

Beginning today (the day before Ash Wednesday,) Mardi Gras is serious business in New Orleans.  Unless your business is directly involved in the celebration, not a lot goes on for a few days, at the least.  Mardi Gras is a celebration of lights, sounds, music, people, food and laughter.  It is a commemoration of life, Creole style, a visual and auditory feast, a joyous celebration of another year of renewed Justice, Faith and Power.   Without a sense of Justice in our lives, we would be in constant strife for some semblance of fairness around us.  Without Faith, we would rapidly find few reasons to live at all beyond our choices day to day.  Without some sense of Power, we cannot see what we do mattering at all in not only our own lives, but the lives of others. These three basic and important values are essential to the residents of New Orleans, especially following Hurricane Katrina.

Celebrations similar to Mardi Gras are held all over the World for two whole weeks, leading up to the Christian fasting period of Lent.  Venice, Italy and Mazatlan, Mexico also have their own celebrations, along with many other major cities around the World.

American origin of Mardi Gras

In 1704 King Louis XIV of France sent off his brothers, Iberville and Bienville LeMoyne, to renew France’s claim on the coastal lands bordering Northern Gulf of Mexico. Iberville and Bienville’s ships sailed a few miles into the mouth of the Mississippi River, and moored, planting French flags in the soil and christening the area Point du Mardi Gras, and forming a new French colony.  It is at this very place that the traditions of the rich French American Creole culture of New Orleans sprang up.

During our colonial period, New Orleans’ use of African slaves was very different than the typical plantation scene.  Black slaves were taught city-based trades (cobbler, plumber, etc.) that wound up being useful following the abolition of slavery, so they remained in New Orleans long after the Civil War ended.  It is in part because of this that there is such a dominant (yet poor) African American community there to this day, contributing to its unique style.

The first of the two buses reached Anniston, Alabama, to a mob of over 200 angry white protesters, who threw rocks through the windows and slashed the tires of the bus.  Rushing past the onslaught, they got 6 miles out of town and visited a service station to get the tires replaced.  It was there that the bus was firebombed.

The second bus reached Birmingham, where it was stopped by yet another mob, the riders forcibly dragged outside, and beaten.  Freedom of Information Act releases later showed that the FBI knew of the planned attack and did nothing to prevent it.  Alabama’s then-Governor John Patterson was unapologetic, stating that he felt the riders deserved the treatment.

Traditions related to Mardi Gras

There are a variety of practices unique to the celebration of Mardi Gras.  There are special foods, including King cakes, which are similar to the Rosca de Reyes (recipe) cakes of Mexico in that they are multi-colored, ring-shaped, and have little baby statues baked therein.  Whoever cuts their slice off and finds the baby must host next year’s party, or at least purchase next year’s King cake.

There are special colors for Mardi Gras: purple, green and gold, signifying the values of Justice, Faith, and Power. Everywhere you look during Mardi Gras you are assailed by these colors, in clothing, signs, streamers, confetti, coins and beads.  People are cajoled into creating and wearing elaborate costumes of these colors, and joining in the festivities.  Feather masks are also welcome.  This is a time to boisterously announce your continued freedom and right to enjoy life.

Everywhere you go during Mardi Gras, you hear it.  Zydeco – the uniquely American Traditional Creole folk music, heavy on the accordion and washboard.  Walk down any alley, and you just might find yourself dancing with strangers, who may welcome you with strings of beads, all to get you in the spirit of things.  There is a definitive sense of strength, of the ability to carry on, despite the rubble still within walking distance from the French Quarter.

Despite the setbacks, many of the Freedom Riders wanted to press on in their pursuit of Justice; however, the bus company did not want to risk any other buses, and the drivers refused to drive any further.  So many were afraid due to the ferocity of the attacks against them, that the bulk of those riders left able to carry on wound up having to fly to New Orleans.

Reports of the attacks caused many leaders of the Civil Rights Movement to consider strong yet peaceful actions of an immediate nature, in order to ensure that the Movement did not die in the face of such violence.  Another set of Freedom Riders formed up and borrowed buses, heading out to Birmingham to tackle the issue head-on.  They received the same level of non-protection from law enforcement, and were also beaten at the roadside.

Mardi Gras Parades

An absolute staple of Mardi Gras, the first parade in the United States wasn’t held in New Orleans, but in Mobile, Alabama in the early 1700′s.  It wasn’t until 1830 that the parades moved to the French Quarter.  Due to New Orleans’ more carefree environment, the parades quickly grew in size, scale (and level of risquety) to what we see today.  Traditionally, as many as 60 parades rolled through New Orleans in the two week span between Ash Wednesday and Lent.

As times have changed, so has the face of the parades.  After Hurricane Katrina, the floats were used to send a message about the Federal Government’s slow response in helping the people of the Lower 9th Ward.  Things are still getting back up to speed, and with each passing year more and more floats arrive, as more Krewes get re-organized.

In1872, Russian Grand Duke Alexis Romanoff visited New Orleans during a Marti Gras celebration that was relatively somber and small (the Civil War had left its mark on New Orleans.)  Romanoff’s visit helped to move people’s attention away from the destruction, and in his honor a King (Rex) and Queen henceforth has been chosen to preside over the celebrations.

Not only were these new additional Freedom Riders beaten, but also those that came to their aid, including members of the U.S. Justice Department.  Many thought they were going to die that very day.  Americans were torn as they watched what transpired on national television. When news of this reached then-Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy, he called in Federal Marshals to the scene to protect the riders.  Martin Luther King, Jr. flew to Montgomery to form up a crowd to confront the mob, but wound up barricaded in a local church until Kennedy forced Governor Patterson to call in the police and National Guard.  The riders were released to lick their wounds and continue their journey of peaceful defiance, of hope and faith.

Krewes and Doubloons

Each float is put together by a “Krewe,” or organization with its own name, structure and membership.  Each Krewe has its own flair, which is interpreted in its floats, costumes and music style.  The larger and more famous Krewes hold their own special ball for its members to commemorate the festivities.

Multi-colored doubloons are thrown from the floats during the Mardi Gras parade, with different motifs chosen by each Krewe to commemorate their presence in the celebration.  This practice was started in the 1960′s.  Coins are date-stamped for the given year.  Because some Krewes have intricate workings done on the coins, many have become collector’s items.   The very first time doubloons were tossed in 1964, no date was stamped on the coins, making them both unique and valuable.

Because of Hurricane Katrina, tens of thousands of doubloons disappeared along with the homes storing them, causing the prices of these collectibles to soar.  Like the people who had to flee before the storm, they are slowly resurfacing, coming back into circulation, rejoining their past.

Upon arriving at Jackson, Mississippi, the Freedom Riders were arrested and jailed for two months, despite having not broken any laws.  But because of their efforts, word spread and hundreds came to Jackson to continue to steady march to New Orleans, to greater rights, to equal access under the law.  Over 300 people were jailed.  The Freedom Riders never made it to New Orleans, but their efforts forced President Kennedy to take a stand on Civil Rights, ushering in a new level of protection for those who had suffered injustice for over 350 years.  Despite efforts to silence them, the Freedom Riders had developed a new sense of Power.

The Zulu Krewe

The advent of the Civil Rights era allowed many African Americans to seek membership in previous all-white Krewes, to participate in the Mardi Gras parades.  It was tough to obtain membership for awhile, and in response the Zulu Krewe was formed, the very first African American Krewe in New Orleans.  If you can’t join them properly in the celebration, then make your own party even better…. Since then the Zulu Krewe has grown substantially in numbers and stature, participating in large numbers during Marti Gras, and raising funds year-round to help impoverished families get help, holiday gifts, and even college scholarships.

A painful past, a celebration today, a hope for tomorrow

Hurricane Katrina tore a wound through New Orleans almost five years ago, ripping up homes and lives, flooding the area with despair.  Although many New Orleans residents got out on buses, cars, trains and planes before the storm hit, the poorest remained to weather the storm.  Largely African American, many still bearing the financial and emotional burdens of the past, they huddled together while the winds pummeled them over and over.  Many thought they were going to die that very day, and we all know many did indeed perish from the storm.  The pain was made worse by a government lacking in timely response, while we all watched the tragedy unfold on national television.

We have a new, modern President, once again.  He got into office promising Change.  Hope.  To the people of the Lower 9th Ward, who are still, to this day suffering in substandard conditions, waiting for someone to help them rebuild their homes and lives, they simply want their lives back.  They want to celebrate Mardi Gras in joy and comfort.

As they say in New Orleans, they want once again to see the colors of Justice, Faith, and Power.